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The $16 Taco

Contested Geographies of Food, Ethnicity, and Gentrification

By Pascale Joassart-Marcelli

Having “discovered” the flavors of barbacoa, bibimbap, bánh mi, sambusas, and pupusas, white middle-class eaters are increasingly venturing into historically segregated neighborhoods in search of “authentic” eateries run by—and for—immigrants and people of color. This...